JUPE BY JACKIE

One of my favourites not only for the originality of the collections concept but the story behind it and how / where it is made. Each piece is hand made in India by artisans who’s techniques are handed down from family generation, using beading and hand embroidery on exquisite European fabrications. The collection is centered around the dress, simple, almost schoolgirl like, each adorned with crafted with tops, with hand embroidered ties and bowties in a uniform colour palette of indigo, moody blues, lilacs with crisp white.

STELLA FOREST

An established French label which looked particularly strong this season. The collection was based around vintage and French history and I feel the encrusted beaded and ornate trims on silks, crepes, lace, shearling and fur will work well in market this season. The collection is for the girl/woman wanting vintage but with a modern take on silhouette and colour which this season looked right again.

BLAME

A new local designer from Berlin, I loved her sense of colour and unique fabric mixing where chunky fluro knits were embellished with hand-scattered silver metallic beading, laser cut leather collars on simple tops and shifts or cotton Broiderie Anglais spliced with wonderful winter floral’s or charcoal marl jersey. The collection was arresting but wearable in a new season-less way.

MONGROLS IN COMMON

This designer collaboration also from Berlin described their collection as “texture blocking” which we suppose was winters answer to last summers colour blocking statement. It worked in the use of beautiful fabrications, wool sateen with flannel for example in a simple tonal blue colour statement. A mix of sporty with demi-couture pieces kept the collection modern for a younger consumer wanting modern classics.

BRUUNS BAZAAR

This established brand from Copenhagen is by no means new, but its direction headed by ex. Swedish COS Creative Director and her team is. The hand writing is unmistakable; a modern, clean, simple aesthetic with unconventional detailing and colour usage which has been so successful and transports well into this label. The owners report fantastic growth already with sales at the fair strong. I recommend you watch this label grow internationally with this new direction. I particularly loved the season’s colours of deep port, icing pink, black and pannacotta.

Take a look at all the newest designs in the Berlin Premium A/W 12-13 Gallery