Spring 2013 Wrap
8th OF October 2012
Fashion commentator Glynis Traill-Nash looks back on the Spring 2013 season and tags the trends to look forward to.
The most anticipated shows of the international Spring 2013 season were in the final throes of the month that started in New York and then took in London, Milan and ended in Paris last week. But they weren’t necessarily the shows that will, in retrospect, become the most influential.
Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons unveiled their first ready-to-wear shows for their new homes, Saint Laurent Paris (formerly Yves Saint Laurent) and Christian Dior, respectively.
Both designers took a long, hard look at the archives of their labels, and both delivered collections that will appeal to younger audiences.
For Simons, that included an upbeat colour palette, ballgown silhouettes with fitted jersey tops and peplum corsets over shorts.
Slimane offered a rather literal look at the work of Saint Laurent (the man), but added a festival-ready slant that clearly had Kate Moss in mind. The overall effect, however, was a little gloomy for a spring collection.
But it was Marc Jacobs who presented two collections that will surely set the trend agenda up and down the high street in the coming months.
Firstly in New York, he was all about stripes – bold, op-art stripes that covered and curved over maxi- and minidresses or were etched out in sequins.
On the last day of the Paris shows, his collection for Louis Vuitton was all about checks: big, bold checkerboard prints that retold the label’s Damier print. And not an LV logo in sight.
Checks and stripes had been a recurring theme throughout the month, and will be two of the biggest print stories for next spring, alongside the ubiquitous spring florals (often, floral appliqués took the place of prints).
While attending the shows in New York, one of my favourite striped collections came from Michael Kors, who gave them a sporty, ’90s spin.
In Paris, Dries Van Noten layered up tartans with florals on sheer organza.
A number of trends have carried over from recent seasons: peplums are still prominent; and we’ll still be wearing our printed trousers to their matching jackets and tops.
Tuxedo dressing is still putting in extra time, thanks to Dior, Balmain, Lanvin and Saint Laurent Paris (home of the original Le Smoking).
And our obsession with the shiny-shiny appeal of metallics has reached new highs. It hit the catwalk at Jonathan Saunders, Viktor & Rolf, Martin Grant and Alexander McQueen.
But nowhere offered quite the same éclat as Burberry Prorsum, especially its finale of colourful metallic trenches.
Sports luxe has become even more sophisticated, thanks to Antonio Berardi, Dion Lee and Stella McCartney. Think less scuba, more futuristic. But there were a few new shapes and silhouettes on show.
Tops and trousers are being cropped, and while showing off ankles is an easy option for most women, showing off the midriff section is a little trickier for anyone over 25.
Tops and jackets (often those cropped ones) are also adopting a boxier shape, as per Balenciaga, Chanel and Chloé.
Shorts and slimline trousers will be worn underneath tunic-style dresses or skirts that cut away at the side or split down the front.
Look at Givenchy, Gucci, Martin Grant, Giorgio Armani, Maison Martin Margiela and Dior to start preparing yourself for that one – it’s going to be big.
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