GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS
Got a burning desire to de-code all that beauty babble? A quick scan through our keep-it-simple-stupid glossary should inform and illuminate. And if we can just add one thing: Please treat this as a generic guide; we don’t have the space, time, or headspace to become a dictionary. Want more detail? That’s what google is for...
A
Acne
A chronic disorder of the sebaceous (oil) glands and hair follicles. There are myriad types of acne but generally speaking, blackheads, pimple outbreaks, cysts and even scarring will be your telltale signs.
Acne rosacea
Can appear as acne but is more specifically identified by redness, sensitivity, irritation and flushing located on the middle of the face, particularly on the nose and across the cheeks. It often flares up after sun exposure and a big night of alcohol and spicy foods.
Algae
Used for its antioxidant and moisturising properties.
Allantoin
Used for its many excellent healing, moisturising, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. All courtesy of the comfrey root.
Aloe Vera
Most often associated with healing sun-exposed skin, it’s also a wonderful general hydrator and soothing agent for dry, damaged skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
AHAs are a group of plant-derived acids widely used for their multi-tasking properties including wrinkle-busting and fine-line finessing, skin texture and tone improving, pore cleansing, exfoliating and in turn upping hydration capabilities. Most commonly used are glycolic and lactic acids.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
An enzyme with potential antioixidant properties. Can help prevent cellular damage.
Amino Acids
The building blocks for collagen and elastin.
Antioxidant
A substance that helps fight free-radicals which encourage oxidation of the skin (not good) and ultimately, premature ageing. Examples include Vitamins A,C,E and green tea.
Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C)
Has myriad duties within the body including the formation of collagen, ensuring capillary strength and neutralising free radicals. A much-used antioxidant.
Avocado Oil
Has wonderful moisturising properties.
B
Beeswax
A thickening agent with emollient properties.
Benzoly Peroxide
An antibacterial agent used in acne treatments. Effective in treating acne but can dry out the skin, depending on the amount used.
Benzoly Peroxide
An antibacterial agent used in acne treatments. Effective in treating acne but can dry out the skin, depending on the amount used.
Beta Hydroxy Acid
BHAs are used for their exfoliating purposes. The most common BHA is salicylic acid.
Blackheads
Are caused by excess oil that is oxidised, hence the visible black/greyish top.
Borage Seed oil
Is an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agent.
C
Caffeine
Used in topical creams, especially eye and body creams, to reduce puffiness.
Ceramides
Naturally occurring fats (lipids) that are the major structural components of the skin’s outer structure. They’re necessary for their water-retention capacity and cell regulation.
Chamomile
Has excellent anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known for its anti-itching, soothing, antiseptic and purifying capabilities.
Citric acid
Derived from citrus, it’s used to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline.
Cocoa Butter
An oil extracted from the cocoa bean. Used as an emollient in cosmetics.
Coconut Oil
A plant kernel oil with good emollient properties.
Coenzyme Q10
Boosts the skin’s defenses by functioning as an antioxidant. Improves immunity and protection against free radicals.
Collagen
Are the elastic fibres that provide skin with its structural support.
Cucumber extract
Used for anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
D
Dehydrated skin
Skin that lacks moisture.
DMAE
Helps to protect the cell membrane.
Dry skin
Skin that lacks oil.
E
Echinacea
Has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Eczema
A skin condition where the skin is dry, hot and itchy, and in more severe forms, can appear broken, raw and bleeding.
Elastin
Is responsible for skin’s ability to retain in its shape.
Emollient
Supple, wax-like, lubricating and thickening agents that prevent water loss and have skin softening and soothing benefits.
Enzyme
In their purest form, they’re used as exfoliants which dissolve the dead skin cells on the top layer of the skin. Papaya and pineapple are common enzymes.
Essential Fatty Acids
Include Omega 3, 6 and Flaxseed. They are the basic building block of the cellular membrane and are used to prevent cellular water loss.
Essential oils
Have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.
Eucalyptus oil/extract
Has anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties. Can be a skin irritant.
Evening Primrose oil
Can be helpful for skin irritations as it improves the skin’s ability to develop normal barrier functions.
Exfoliation
The chemical or physical removal of dead or non-functioning skin cells.
F
Fatty acids
Substances found in plants and animal fats (lipids) which can help supplement the skin’s intercellular matrix.
Flavonoids
Strengthen capillaries and other connective tissue. Many also act as anti-inflammatory, anti-histaminic, and anti-viral agents.
Free Radicals
Are unstable molecules found naturally in the body and in the environment. They react with certain chemicals in the body, and in doing so, interfere with the cells’ ability to function normally. Free radicals are a main cause of premature ageing.
G
Ginkgo Biloba
Has certain antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and can aid in collagen production.
Glucosamine
Strengthens the skin’s connective tissue so it can absorb more water.
Glycerin
Is present in natural fats and boosts the skin’s natural protection while attracting the right amount of water to the skin. Is used for its water-binding abilities, allowing it to draw and absorb water from the environment.
Glycolic Acid
An alpha-hydroxy-acid famed for its exfoliation properties.
Grape Seed Extract
Is rich in flavonoid and phytochemicals that have potent antioxidant properties. Can be helpful for diminishing the sun’s damaging effects and lessening free-radical damage while offering wound-healing properties.
Green Tea
Used for its potent antioxidant properties, including ellagic acid.
H
Horsechestnut Extract
Used as an anti-inflammatory.
Humectant
A water-binding agent and an excellent moisturiser.
Hyaluronic acid
Is a humectant and can hold 1000 times its weight in water. An acid that helps retain the skin's natural moisture.
Hydrators
Are ingredients that add moisture to help strengthen the skin’s barrier.
Hydrogen Peroxide
Is used for its antibacterial properties.
Hyperpigmentation
Is the excess production of melanin pigment, resulting in darkening of the skin.
Hypopigmentation
Is the lack of production of melanin, causing ‘white spots’ on skin.
J
Jojoba oil
Used for its emollient properties.
K
Kaolin
A natural clay-like mineral used for its absorbent properties.
Kojic acid
An antioxidant which inhibits melanin production.
L
Lactic Acid
An AHA used for its exfoliation properties.
Lavender Oil
Is an essential oil used for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic, soothing and healing qualities.
Lecithin
Is vital to the integrity of the cell wall and an essential building block of the lipid layer surrounding the cells and forms the foundation of the cell membrane.
Licorice
Used as an anti-irritant and for its brightening properties.
Linoleic Acid
An essential fatty acid also known as Vitamin K. Used for redness reduction properties.
Lipid
Ingredients found in plants, animals and human skin which include fatty acids, sebums and fats. Used as emollient and thickening agents.
M
Melanin
The pigment in cells that are responsible for giving skin and hair colour.
Menthol
Used for its stimulating and cooling properties.
N
Normal/ combination skin
Is partially oily and partially dehydrated skin. Usually the T-zone is oily and the outside of the checks and jaw are dehydrated.
Non-acnegenic
A term used in the cosmetic industry to indicate that a product will not cause skin to break out.
Non-comedogenic
A term used in the cosmetic industry to indicate that a product will not clog pores.
O
Oily skin
Is most commonly defined as an excess of sebum or oil production skin.
Oxidation
A change in a chemical characterised by the loss of electrons. Picture the way a sliced apple browns when left exposed to the air.
P
Panthenol
An anti-inflammatory agent known for its healing and moisturising benefits.
Peppermint extract/oil
Used for its antibacterial properties. Can be an irritant.
Peptide
A short chain of amino acids (proteins are long chains), they regulate the activity of other molecules such as proteins and have many different functions including antiobiotic activity, wound healing and skin barrier repair.
Photoageing
Damage to the skin caused by the sun or ultraviolet rays.
Phytochemicals
Known for their antioxidant properties, they’re compounds that act as free radical scavengers to help eliminate the highly charged oxygen molecules that are by-products of metabolised oxygen.
Pigmentation
The discoloration of the skin. A pesky problem experienced from your late 20s.
Polyphenols - Plant derived chemicals with superb antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and skin rejuvenating capabilities.
Polysaccharides
A natural component of the skin that can prove a good water-binding agent and potentially have antioxidant properties.
Propolis
Used for its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
R
Red tea
Also know as Aspalathus Linearis Leaf extract, it’s the strongest known antioxidant and helps strengthen the capillary wall.
Resveratrol
A polyphenol that’s naturally created by certain vines, pine trees, peanuts, grapes and other plants. A fantastic free-radical scavenger, it boasts superior antioxidant properties.
Retinyl palmitate
Is a form of Vitamin A and is a combination of retinal and palmitic acid. A skin cell regulator and antioxidant.
Retinol
A Vitamin A derivative that helps normalise skin cell production. Most commonly found in anti-ageing and acne products.
Rosacea
A skin condition characterized by redness, pimples, and broken blood vessels.
S
Salicylic Acid
A BHA used for its exfoliating and oil dissolving properties.
Seborrhea
Is severe oiliness in the skin.
Sebum
Is oil in the skin.
Sensitive Skin
Can become easily irritated on contact with a number of substances or products. It’s often very dry as well.
Shea Butter
Is a plant lipid used for its excellent moisturising and skin penetrating properties.
Silicone
A mineral-based substance which allows moisture to stay locked in the skin but at the same time allowing oxygen in and out of the follicles. Commonly used for its smooth, non-greasy feel.
Silk Protein
A protein substance formed by converting silk, it has water-binding and antioxidant properties.
Solvent
A large group of ingredients - including water - that are used to dissolve or break down other ingredients in a formulation. Used to de-grease skin and remove sebum.
Squalane
Used for it moisturising properties.
Stratum Corneum
The outermost layer of the skin, also known as the horny layer.
Sunflower Oil
Used for its smoothing properties, very high in essential fatty acids.
T
Tannic Acid
Encourages bonding of cells that strengthen the barrier function. Also has antioxidant, anti inflammatory, and germicidal properties.
Teatree oil
Is a disinfectant and is effective against blemish-forming bacteria.
Titanium Dioxide
Active chemical ingredients found in sunblocks to help prevent damage to the skin from the sun.
Tocopherol
Also known as Vitamin E, it primarily serves the body as an antioxidant.
Trans Epidermal Water Loss
The loss of moisture from within the skin into the atmosphere. Inevitably, some of the cell’s internal water supply will evaporate into the air. Regular use of a good moisturiser can minimise TEWL.
U
Urea
A synthetic compound that boasts good water-binding and exfoliating properties.
V
Vitamin A
Used to increase collagen production, It’s a fine wrinkle fighter and an exfoliant.
Vitamin B
Increases blood circulation and tissue repair.
Vitamin C
Is known for its anti-oxidant and healing properties.
Vitamin E
Also known as Tocopherol, it primarily serves the body as an antioxidant.
Vitamin K
Used for its redness reduction properties.
W
Water-binding agent
Helps skin retain moisture. Glycerin, ceramides and lecithin are all good water-binding agents.
Whitehead
also known as a closed comedone caused by trapped dead skin cells, oil buildup, bacteria and impurities. Whiteheads appear as small white bumps.
Witch hazel
Has potent antioxidant properties.
Y
Yeast
A good antioxidant with tissue-repair and protective properties.
Z
Zinc
A trace mineral used to protect the skin from UV light, infection, bacteria and fungi. It also promotes collagen building, enhances the effects of vitamin A and E, and soothes irritation.
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